Sunday, June 7, 2015

Mt.Baker... last ski of the season?

 
For the past four years now, Becky and I have done a summer ski of Mt.Baker...usually as our last ski tour of the season.   Given how fast the snowpack is disappearing this season, we figured it was time to get Baker instead of waiting till mid-July like most years.
We've climbed Baker plenty of times as a day trip, but as our camping gear as become lighter and lighter, its pretty easy to toss the sleeping bag and tent into the pack and turn the jaunt into a leisurely overnighter.  We left Seattle in the early afternoon and were hiking up the Scott Paul trail around 4pm Saturday.   Lots of day hikers out and tons of cars in the parking lot, yet when we got to our favorite camping spot just below the Squak Glacier, there was no one there.   We assumed the masses must be one ridge over camping next to the Easton Glacier or just above us, but either way it was great to have peace and quiet.
After dinner, we stayed up till well after 10 watching the sunset, then set the alarm for 4am.  It was a very warm night... no need to even wear a hat in my tiny 1-lb 45 degree bag.    The snow on the lower Squak hadn't refroze overnight which made for easy skinning up the glacier in the morning.    It was breezier than expected, but with the warm temps it kept the ski up from feeling like being in an oven.   Quite a few more open crevasses than usual this time of year, I guess even the upper reaches of Baker had had a rough go of it this past winter. 
As we neared a bottleneck of climbers heading down near Sherman Crater, we figured out that one of the huge groups climbing the Easton glacier route was the Washington Alpine Club climbing class on their graduation climb.   We haven't done much with the WAC in ages, so we didn't expect to see many familiar faces, but we figured Pat was in the mix somewhere.   Sure enough, as we waited for some parties to cross a snowbridge, we spotted Pat....who introduced us as 'Becky and Pete are WAC members too....and I married them!'.   
After chatting with Pat for a bit and letting the traffic clear, we continued on up.   About halfway up the Roman Wall, the last slope to the summit, we switched from skis to crampons just to speed things up.    Lots of huge crevasses below the Roman Wall this year, but the route steered well clear of all but a couple.
As we reached the top, there were only two other skis and they were on their way down.  We didn't spend too much time on the summit as the snow didn't need any more softening to ski.
A quick uneventful ski back to camp through increasingly sticky and heavy snow and then we grabbed our camping gear and headed down.  A gully to the west of Crag View got us to within about 50 yards of the trail, and then it was time to rack the skis and don the sneakers.
 Might try one more ski on the north slopes of Rainier in a couple weeks or this might be it...hopefully next years ski season will be a bit longer. 


Tuesday, June 2, 2015

Spring skiing road trip - South Sister, Shasta, and Hood

 
Somehow Becky and I lucked out and our week of vacation lined up with some pretty nice weather. Even the day before we left, our itinerary was completely up in the air- completely dependant on weather and snow conditions...would we head north or south or who knows where.

Our little road trip started on Memorial Day weekend, but we figured that our prime destination of Mt.Shasta might be a bit of a zoo...so we pointed the car towards Central Oregon for a couple days.   We had a great ski of South Sister as a nice warm-up for the week. Clouds came and went through the day, but it was still warm and the snow was good, although a bit sticky and mushy. We made it back into Bend just in time to grab dinner with Dru, Jen and their kiddos. 

The next day, was to be the worst weather day on Shasta, so we delayed another day...took our time driving to California and headed over to Crater Lake. We'd been to Crater Lake several times with my family, but had never been there when there was still snow on the ground.  As we drove towards the lodge, we saw a steep, short little slope running from the road to the crater rim....that slope needed some ski tracks on it. After 30 minutes of scooting uphill we had a lovely view of the lake from our solitary perch on Hillman Peak and had a short, fun ski back down. As we got back to the car, a park service truck was waiting next to us. We were worried about being lectured, but as it turned out, the two fellows had been wanting to snowboard that pitch for a while and were stoked to see someone playing on it.

On to Shasta, where we arrived at Bunny Flat trailhead a bit before sunset. It was nearly deserted, though the overflowing trashcans showed just how busy it had been that weekend. The next morning we shuffled on up the trail towards Helen Lake and our camp at 10,500ft. After 1.7 miles and 1,000ft of hiking we reached the Sierra Club shelter at Horse Camp and could put our skis on snow. The ski up to Helen Lake was quick and we spent the rest of the afternoon relaxing in the sun and reading.

The next morning, we both felt great so we skipped our acclimatization day and headed on up. The few other climbers that were camped near us had left hours earlier, so we had a quiet climb to the summit only seeing a few other people. The top 1,000ft wasn't quite soft, but we wanted to avoid the afternoon clouds that seemed to build every day, so we skied down to top of the Red Banks and took a break for the snow to soften. Around noon, the snow was perfect corn and we flew down Avalanche Gulch. Back at camp, we refilled our water bottles, grabbed some lunch and went back up.  The afternoon heat was tremendous though and we didn't get more than about 1,100ft above camp before we ripped our climbing skins and skied back for the shade of the tent.

Rather than pack up camp, we decided to stick around for another day and ski Avy Gulch again.   Unfortunately, some high clouds on Thursday morning delayed the softening of the snow and our repeat ski wasn't quite as soft as Wednesday. Back at Helen Lake we broke camp and headed for the car. We managed to find a dirty gully of snow that got us a bit past Horse Camp and only had a bit more than a mile of hiking to get back to the car.

Friday morning, we pointed the car toward Northern Oregon to meet our family in Welches. The family was gathering that weekend at Mt.Hood to celebrate the scattering of my grandfather's ashes on the summit. I had been stressing over whether we'd get good enough weather to pull this off for a while, as we'd picked this weekend months ago, but the forecast looked great. As usual, we drove up to Timberline after dark and crashed in the back of the car. We left the car at 3am and saw a steady line of headlamps high on the mountain - lots of  folks had left around midnight.

We reached the top of the Palmer snowfield around sunrise, racked our skis and switched to boot crampons. As we got to the hogsback we had a great view of the masses above us crawling around. We had no interest in getting on the steeper terrain with so many guided parties and ill-prepared folks, but we took our time and started a slow traverse from the west and by the time we got to the old chute, everyone was out of sight. The chute was very firm, but the bootpack was good and there were plenty of ice axe holes for self-belaying. As we reached the top, we were thrilled that the morning crowds were gone and only one other climber was on the summit ridge. Becky and I got our picture taken with my grandfather's axe and some family photos and then the other climber headed down. Becky and I were able to have a quiet moment on the summit to release his ashes and then start down the chute before any other traffic showed up. By the time we reached our skis, the snow was softening.

We had a lunch date with our family at Timberline, so we couldn't wait around for softer snow, but we made good time and got to Timberline right around noon. Of all the times, I've climbed Hood, I never knew that the dining room had a buffet lunch. Pigging out for a couple hours while catching up with our family was a wonderful end to a week of sun and snow.