Tuesday, April 1, 2014

BC ski trip, first-timers checking out the Duffey Lake area








write-up by Becky:

About an hour north of Whistler, BC lies a backcountry skiers paradise referred to as The Duffey, so named for Duffey Lake. It’s a stretch of Highway 99 between Pemberton and Lillooet that is flanked on either side by steep, glaciated peaks and endless powder. Pete and I got to spend six days exploring this Shangri la.
Day 1 – Oh look. It’s raining.
We drove out of Seattle at 6:30 am under intermittently rainy skies. We made good time to Bellingham, but had to make a few stops along the way for things like kerosene and a busted iPhone cord. After the requisite stop at Tim Horton’s for lunch and donuts, we pulled into the rain-soaked parking area for Cerise Creek at 1pm. Our destination, Keith’s Hut, is a rustic backcountry hut constructed by friends and family in memory of Keith Flavelle who died in a climbing accident in the 80’s. It is entirely supported by donations and a VERY popular destination. We opted to go here for Tues/Wed/Thurs nights in an effort to avoid the crowds and it worked out well! We arrived at the hut after 2.25 hours of skinning through rain and then increasingly driving snow to find only two other people there for the night. Marcela, from Argentina, and her boyfriend Steve, from London, were on a multi-month skiing and climbing trip through the US and Canada in a big touring van they picked up in Florida. They made great hut-mates! We were pretty soaked after our hike in so we laid our gear out to dry and started planning what to ski the next day.
Day 2 – Oh look. That’s a foot of new snow!
We awoke to clearing skies and a foot of powder. Sweetness. One of the great things about Keith’s Hut is that as soon as you walk out the door you can start climbing so you really get down to business straight away. The other great thing is that so much of the terrain is north facing it’s hard to go wrong. We left the hut with Steve and Marcela and climbed up the moraine towards the Anniversary glacier. We opted to take the northwest facing side of the moraine while Steve and Marcela took the northeast facing side. We bounced and giggled our way down through 1800 ft of soft, dry powder. This place was fun. We climbed back up the moraine for another lap, but this time followed Steve and Marcela’s tracks down the other side. The sun had taken a bit of a toll on the snow, but it was still deep and powdery. We found a skin track climbing up to a col on the east side of Mt. Matier and went up for a look around. We were rewarded with fantastic views and dramatic light shining on the Twin One Glacier, Mt. Howard and Snowspider Mountain. Back down more north-facing powder to another skin track climbing up the east side of the basin. These west-facing slopes had been rather cooked by the sun at that point so the snow was heavy and a little crusty, but still fun skiing! It was 5pm by that point and we were getting a little tired so we called it a day and headed back to the hut where we found several newcomers including an awesome family from Squamish comprising two wool-hatted, hippy tele skier parents and their jibbing teenage sons who built a kicker in back of the hut and proceeded to land backflip after backflip. So great.
Day 3 – Time to head for the bigger stuff.
The first day of touring was a bit of a pub crawl so we could get a feel for the place and try out the snow on different aspects. This day was a bit more objective-oriented. One of the classic skis in the area is the Anniversary glacier. Looking straight on is intimidating because it looks impossibly steep, but when you get up on it, you realize that’s just the effects of foreshortening and it’s really not that bad. We started the day with another 1800 ft lap off the moraine as we had the day before, this time skiing with Steve and Marcela. The clouds were coming and going so we wanted to give them some time to burn off before heading for the high alpine. On the next lap, Marcela took her poor fatigued legs and blistered feet back to the hut while Steve, Pete and I headed for the col at the top of the Anniversary glacier. We had very good visibility the whole way up and got some nice views across to Matier and Slalok. The ski down was on mostly great snow, though it had been slightly affected by the sun and wind from the previous day. This run affords you 2500 uninterrupted feet of skiing straight down. Needless to say our quads were on fire by the time we got to the bottom. We thought we’d call it a day after that, but Steve is very persuasive and enthusiastic and convinced us to go back up the moraine for a look at a steep little couloir that a couple guys had skied the day before. Looking down into it, I rubbed my tired legs and said no way, but Steve dropped in and reported that it wasn’t nearly as steep as it looked. So we went for it and are so glad we did! It was a fantastic little shot followed by more wide open rolling terrain that deposited us 300 grueling feet below the hut. We dug deep for that climb back up.
Day 4 – I can haz cheezburger?
Our original plan had been to ski to the car on day 4, collect more food and then ski up the other side of the road to another hut for three nights. Our overly-ambitious tours around Keith’s Hut (and concerns about the weather and snow conditions in the other hut’s basin) left us feeling tired and calorie-deprived and in need of the Wifi’s so instead, we bee-lined it for Pemberton, found a hotel, got into our street clothes and went to the Mile One restaurant for soul-soothing hamburger. I think they make their own buns. So. Good. We spent the rest of the day relaxing in the hotel hot tub, and being couch potatoes.
Day 5 – Back at it!
Feeling refreshed (and with only a daypack to carry now), we headed back up Highway 99 to check out the skiing on Mt. Chief Pascall. This north facing mountain rises 3000 feet up from the highway. We got to the ridge top and decided to run a few laps on the top 1000 feet to take advantage of the best snow. On each subsequent lap we noticed that the quality of the snow at the bottom of our run was increasingly heavy. It was obviously warming so after the next climb, we headed to the east side of Mt. Chief Pascall to ski a massive slide path called Equinox back down to the road. In good conditions, this run would be awesome. In heavy, tracked out and slightly crusty conditions, it was challenging to say the least. To add insult to injury, the run deposits you on a logging road 1.5 flat miles from your car so we got to do some sweet cross country skiing at the end of our day. After that it was back to the Pemberton Valley Lodge for more hot-tubbing and vegetating.
Day 6 – A private hut for me? Why yes, thank you!
Sunday we drove back up Highway 99 with our overnight packs reloaded with our sleeping bags and pads, camp stove, more food and kerosene for the heater. We were headed for the Wendy Thompson Hut, operated by the Alpine Club of Canada. We were still concerned about what the snow would be like since much of the terrain around it is south facing, but we’d gotten some new snow so we took our chances that the crust may have been covered. It’s about a three hour skin up the valley to the hut. We passed six skiers on their way out and they reported no one else up there. We arrived and sure enough had the entire place to ourselves. The weather was intermittently snowy and blowy with poor visibility so we hopped in some existing skin tracks to explore the little hills immediately surrounding the hut. We found very decent, though touchy snow so we kept it conservative and just did three little laplettes. We spent the evening playing cards by candlelight.
Day 7 – Right, so THERE are the bluebird conditions.

We awoke to perfectly sunny and windless conditions. Of course. Because it was time to go home. We headed out at 7:30 to get in some skiing and hopefully some views before we had to pack up. We found another nice little northeast facing powder stash and then climbed in to upper Marriott Basin in order to get views out to the south and west. The climb up was kind of sketchy, traversing under warming cornices, but nothing broke off and we were again rewarded with amazing views across to Joffre, Matier and Cayoosh. Many of our sentences at this point started with “Next time…” We were clearly hooked and would need to come back. We took one more run back to the hut and packed up our stuff. A much-quicker-than-expected slide out had us back to the car by 12:30 with visions of more Mile One cheeseburgers dancing in our heads. But oh, the horror! They’re closed on Mondays!!! We settled for some perfectly tasty paninis, great coffee and amazing vegan chocolate cake at The Mount Currie Coffee Company before hitting the road home. As usual, the drive back down the Sea-to-Sky highway was gorgeous and distracting, especially on this bluebird day.